Everest Base Camp 2008 - Day 6
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Starting
point : Dingboche (Altitude: 4327m/14175 ft. StartTime:
8:25 am) |
The trail started right behind our lodge without any preamble. We could see the peak from where we started but were told that it seemed deceptively close. It was a brilliant sunny day (like every other day so far) but it was chilly due to the wind. We had many layers on but felt uncomfortable. Just the typical starting problems that we had almost every day since Day 2. But after the initial period of warming up passed, we were still struggling. The altitude and the steepness of the terrain was having an effect and we found the going very slow and tough. We were trying to pace ourselves to avoid taking breaks and to avoid going out of breath. It takes some discipline to match the rhythm of one's breathing and one's walking, particularly when it was over a vertical slope.
The quick appearance of Makalu's peak was quite a boost and encouraged us to push on despite our difficulties. The view to the west was an absolute stunner. We could see Tawoche, Cholatse (first time), the Chola pass and the Lobuche peaks. This was just a few minutes into the climb and it would only get better from now on. The trail from Dingboche to Lobuche passes left to right in the flat area in the foreground of the picture. Between this flat area and the mountains behind is the broad expanse of the Khumbu Khola river valley. The town of Pheriche (not seen in pic) also lies at the bottom. We would be able to view all these when we get to the top.
So we dismissed all the negative thoughts about the difficulty of the climb and kept pushing each other on. We put our cameras away and concentrated on putting one foot in front (more like on top) of the other. For a long time, we were the only people on the trail. We could see some trekkers below, but they seemed to be staying put at a particular spot. A lone Japanese trekker made steady progress and eventually caught up with us and passed us. Our guide had taken the short path and was way ahead of us. As we neared the top, the trail disappeared among large boulders which required the use of hands to deal with. But we were quite close to the top and negotiated the last stretch in anticipation of reaching the top soon. It was a thrill to eventually get to the top at 10:45 am (2 hours and 20 mins). It was time now to enjoy the views.
First, the mountain peak of the day, Makalu (5th highest on earth) with Makalu II and connecting saddle, Island Peak (in front of Makalu II), with the Nangkartsang peak cairn in the foreground, and Barun Tse (7,220m/23,688 ft) to the right of Makalu. The path leading towards Makalu is the Chukkung valley which is part of the day trek that was our other option.
Looking east from
Nangkartsang Peak at Chukkung Valley and Makalu
Makalu deserved a close up shot...
Makalu (5th highest
mountain on earth)
The next one could easily be the most fabulous view of the entire trip. Tawoche (only partially seen at left edge), Cholatse (the mountain tilting to the right), the Cholatse Pokhari lake, the Khumbu Khola river (white threads on the valley floor) and the mountains in the far distance. None of these have star power, but this view was simply mesmerizing.
Khumbu Khola Valley from
Nangkartsang peak (looking west)
Not to forget our old friend Ama Dablam with its split profile and a couple of blue blue lakes at its foot which could not be seen from lower elevations.
Ama Dablam and its
lakes
And our even older friends Kang Tega (with the full support of its entire range with the nameless peaks) and Thamserku.
Looking south from
Nangkartsang Pk.: Kang Tega and Thamserku
Pictures of ourselves at the peak...
M and V on top of
Nangkartsang Peak (Makalu and Barun Tse behind)
We have clockwise and anticlockwise panoramic videos from the peak. We couldn't leave either out. The views were that good. Go ahead, you can start both of them simultaneously!
On the way down, we could see the village of Pheriche that was separated from Dingboche by just a ridge.
On our way down,Pheriche
in the right side valley and Dingboche at left
We made it back down in an hour. Back at 12:15, we tried to use the laundry area outside to wash some clothes and it turned out to be a bad idea as the cold water just stung our hands. After lunch (Dal/Rice/Tarkari, Fried Momos and Tomato Egg Drop Soup and Lemon Tea!), we did feel tired and cold in our rooms. We needed the rest and got into our sleeping bags to stay warm. The room walls were of plywood and were warped. But it had a window with a nice view of Ama Dablam.
Google Earth perspective of the view south of Nangkartsang peak: Ama Dablam is at left, Kang Tega and Thamserku are in front. (Kusum Kanguru is hidden by Thamserku in our photo, but is visible in this snapshot as the perspectives are not exactly from the same point)
The fabulous western view from Nangkartsang peak mimicked here in Google Earth. Tawoche, Cholatse and Lobuche peaks are seen along with the Khumbu Khola river
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